I have never shied away from a good hike. I firmly believe it is one of the best ways to get around and explore your surroundings. I've done my share of hiking in Canada's National Parks and will one day write a blog about some of those, but this post will focus on two hikes that, to me, were very memorable.
The first, pictured above, was a hike from the town of Doolin in Western Ireland down the coastline but up in elevation to the Tourist center at the Cliffs of Moher. The second hike was on one of the loveliest islands in the northeastern part of the Aegean Sea. It is the Turkish island of Bozcaada and has some interesting history and features. The hike there took us from the town center along the coast to the highly popular Ayazma beach.
Cliffs of Moher Coastal Walk in County Clare
The walk from Doolin to the Cliffs is part of a larger hike called the Burren Way which is about 115km long. This hike starts in the coastal town of Lahinch and ends in the interior at Corofin, or vice versa, with the Cliff Coastal walk falling somewhere in the middle a bit closer to the Lahinch side of this larger hike.
Not having the 4-5 days we'd need to hike the whole route we decided to do a day trip and stick to the Cliffs of Moher Coastal walk. This hike, while at times strenuous, is only about 8km and takes about 3 hours give or take. There is a lot to see and take pics of during the hike so you might want to bank more time for stops.
The town of Doolin is a pretty fun place as well. It is very well known for the music scene at its pubs. Local and tourist musicians alike all just start jamming together while the pints flow. Forget about getting a quiet table for two in these places as you'll be at a table with a lot of strangers who by the end of the night, and several pints, you'll be best mates with. It is fantastic, and I would definitely do that all over again.
Gus O'Connor's or McGann's are probably the most well known and visited but there are others to explore too. If you do plan to visit there I'd recommend getting a place within walking distance of these pubs as you will not want to be driving! We found The Lodge Doolin to be an absolutely charming property within stumbling distance (literally) of both the above pubs. The hosts there gave us all the info we needed plus a map so we could navigate to the Cliffs.
You start in the town and then head south along first roadways, then stone paths, then farmland with the Atlantic ocean on your right the length of the hike. The first few kilometers are a slow steady incline and easy to travel. You'll pass the Doonagore Castle pretty early on in the hike just outside of town. In the same vicinity there is also an abandoned cottage in ruins.
You'll be sharing the fields with some of the locals throughout your hike as well. Horses that is. And cows. Be careful with the small wire fences that are in the area during the hike. My wife found one that was periodically electrified. They are only about knee high and easy to step over but she accidentally brushed her shins on it and she jumped back in shock and indignation thinking I had hit her leg with a stick. I even carefully flicked my hand to the metal and it was not electrified at that point so I was thinking it must just do it once in a while. There was rubber tubing around the metal wire at each of the fence posts so that would lead credence to the theory. Or it was in her imagination...
From the cottage area we followed a small walled road to the coast and the trail that runs along the edge. A lot has changed there since I last did this hike. They have since fenced off larger sections of it so that you cannot access as much as in past, and there are sections now that have private property signs that you will have to walk inland to avoid crossing at points. Ultimately you'll be able to get back to the coast for the climb near the Pollboy lookout.
When we traveled there we were able to follow the coast pretty much the entire walk and at times were getting blasted by sea spray from the winds that drove it up the cliff from hundreds of feet below. These were some pretty tricky bits to navigate as it was slick, steep, and you only had a couple of feet to the edge of the cliff. Needless to say we were both soaked and covered in mud when we arrived at the visitors center but thoroughly content at the experience.
We drew some glances from people as we climbed over the fence only to see on their side of the fence was a sign that said 'no trespassing'. In our defense, there were no such signs anywhere coming from Doolin to up the cliffs. Nor were there any substantive fences barring our path forward other than the ones keeping the cattle away.
There was only a sign or two that warned about decaying cliff faces at certain locations and not to venture out onto the rocky outcrops. Looking back at the photos from that day, in particular the following one, I can see why they made the access more limited and put up more signage! Man, we were right on the edge there.
Once at the visitor center you can take in the views along the stone walkways up there and then do some shopping in the gift shops or have a bite in the cafe. From there you can take either a shuttle or taxi back to Doolin if you don't feel like hiking back at this point, which we certainly didn't. We spent an hour atop the center and promptly caught the shuttle back to clean up and hit the pub for a well deserved pint.
Even if the trail is more limited, and ultimately safer, it is still a beautiful hike with stunning vistas all the way along. There were huge swaths of wild flowers and abundant animal life. We could see the famed puffins flying below us but they never got close enough for a picture. If you do try this hike out make sure you tell someone where you are going, and here is what you will need to take:
Warm clothing and rain gear - Even if it isn't raining there is enough spray that you will want it, and the stiff breeze is chilly. If you don't have a hood on your jacket then bring a waterproof hat.
Good solid hiking shoes - Make sure you've got waterproof with a decent tread for this hike.
Drinking water to stay hydrated.
Phone and power bank - For emergencies, maps, and photos
Grab (or print) a paper map just in case you drop signal. You may want to consider a compass as well especially if you are hiking in an area with spotty GPS.
Snacks - Energy bars, nuts, dried fruit, or jerky to keep your energy up during the hike.
Binoculars if you want to get a look at the puffins.
Emergency foil blanket - the weather can change quickly there and you might need it to keep warm.
Sunglasses - Yes, Ireland is rainy but we had sun the whole day.
First aid kit - Just the basics but make sure you've got some moleskin for blisters.
Bozcaada Town Center to Ayazma Beach
Bozcaada, is an island in the northeastern Aegean Sea, and has a rich history reflecting its strategic maritime location. Known in Greece as Tenedos, Bozcaada's history dates back to antiquity, prominently featuring in Greek mythology and the epic Trojan War narratives. If one believes the tales, the fleet of ships that were to attack Truva (Troy) was said to be anchored in hiding by the island while the men in the Trojan Horse were secreted into the city. Regardless of mythology, over the centuries it has been a pivotal outpost for various empires, including the Greeks, Persians, and Romans.
The Byzantine era saw the island as a religious and military bastion, which continued until the Genoese and then the Venetians took control, utilizing its strategic position for trade and military endeavors. The Ottoman Empire seized Bozcaada in the mid-15th century, marking a significant period of Islamic influence and architectural transformation, most notably with the construction of the landmark fortress that welcomes visitors to the port. In 1923, Bozcaada officially became part of modern Turkey and yet it still maintains a significant Greek influence in the culture and cuisine.
The island is known for just a few things: wine, wind and tourism. Despite the island's relatively small size there are at least 6 wineries and dozens of vineyards that provide the grapes for them. There are four endemic types of grape here: Kuntra and Karalahna for red, and Çavuş and Vasilaki for white. I did a tour of a winery sort of, it was more of a group tractor ride up to the Çamlıbağ vineyards for a sunset toast. It was divine. Actually, I don't think they actually permit actual winery tours but there are plenty of tastings to be found in the shops.
Bozcaada's power is from wind and some solar as there is a large wind farm on the island's northwest coast. My entire time there the wind never stopped blowing, which I noticed was fairly common throughout my travels in the Aegean sea. This wind makes for some great windsurfing which is one of the draws for tourists, along with its pristine beaches. One of these beaches is the very popular Ayazma on the southwestern shore. It was here that we decided to walk and explore the coastline along the way.
With the exception of the first portion where we followed dirt tracks and some stone paths, we pretty much stuck to the Tuzburnu yol (road) that hugs the coast. There was a more direct route across the center but we wanted to stick to the coast to see the plentiful small beaches and sights along the way. The hike itself was about 15 kilometers and took us around 4 hours. It could be done in 3 but we made several stops and detours to take breaks and photos.
The road is fairly winding, with lots of ups and downs, and at least one the day we walked, there was very little traffic. I think we may have seen 3 cars in those 4 hours. We stopped at several secluded beach areas and waded a little in the sea. There was a small lighthouse nearby which we wandered down to. It wasn't particularly impressive but the coast nearby was pretty. We had to be careful walking there though because the scrub brush contained a couple of plants that had rather nasty prickles and/or burrs. I think they were a maquis and possibly a şeytan pençesi (devil's claw). We had to weave and dodge to get around some spots.
As we neared our destination we stopped in at the Ayazma Monastery where we were able to fill our water bottle from the double fluted fountain.
The water was cold, crystal clear, and most welcome as we had both run out by that point and were really thirsty! We wandered around there for a little while and then made the last push down the hill towards the beach. It was only about a half kilometer from the Monastery so it went by quick.
Once at the beach we waded a little bit in the surf and watched the windsurfers but we were both starving by then so we went to an open air place on the beach called Koreli and had a late lunch. I had Mücver with a side of Sarımsaklı Yoğurt ( i.e. fried zucchini fritters with garlic yogurt). Maybe it was the hike, the hunger, the atmosphere, or the sea air blowing through the restaurant I swear to this day it is one of the best meals I have ever eaten. So much so that I have tried relentlessly to replicate it at home and, while I've come close, have never matched it.
Once we were finished we took the shuttle bus back to our house needing to wash up and get ready for our sunset wine tour. We had rented a lovely house now called Oda 19 located in the Greek quarter some 2 minutes from the central square and all of the restaurants, but sadly it was sold a couple years back and was renovated into a multi-room B&B. I shouldn't say sadly I guess, the new place looks lovely on the website. I just have such good memories of having the whole building to ourselves.
I'm sure there have been many other changes on the island since I made the hike, and have seen on TripAdvisor that the beach is now overpopulated with chaise lounges and umbrellas for a price but I would still recommend going for the hike as it really does take you through some beautiful landscapes and some (still) secluded beach areas.
If you do plan on hiking here, or any other location that leans towards the hot and arid climate then you'll want to pack for it. As with any hike make sure someone knows where you are going and when to expect you back. Here are some things to bring:
Light clothing and head gear - Something loose fitting and airy that covers most of your skin is ideal, and pick a wide brimmed hat with UV protection.
Sunscreen - speaking of UV protection...
Good solid hiking shoes - Lightweight and breathable would be ideal.
Drinking water to stay hydrated; a LOT of it. Plan for about 2-3 liters per person. Make it easier and get yourself a Camelbak bladder.
Phone and power bank - For emergencies, maps, and photos.
Grab (or print) a paper map just in case you drop signal. You may want to consider a compass as well especially if you are hiking in an area with spotty GPS.
Snacks - Energy bars, nuts, dried fruit, or jerky to keep your energy up during the hike.
Sunglasses - Even with the hat on, glare from the ground is going to hurt the eyes in time.
First aid kit - Just the basics but make sure you've got some moleskin for blisters and some chapstick for those parched lips.
Lightweight towel or bandana - Useful for wiping sweat, sitting on, or dipping in water to cool off.
Insect repellant - If stinging insects are indigenous to the area you are hiking.
Backpack - A comfortable backpack to carry all of the above.
Summary
Both of these hikes were a completely different experience and were equally as enjoyable. One through a lush and fertile magical landscape and one through a quiet, arid, and windswept island coastline. I can't say which one I enjoyed more. Perhaps Ireland because I knew a few good pints of Murphy's Red would be waiting for me at the end of the day with dozens of new friends to enjoy it with. Then again, I do quite fancy a nice ice cold glass of Rakı while sitting on a beach by the Aegean. See what I mean? Tough to choose. Let me know what you think if you've done either of these hikes, or better yet, have one to recommend!
Happy Travels!
Il Digestivo
Interested in doing some hikes of your own? There are a few items you might want to make sure you bring along. First and foremost you're going to need a good pair of shoes. Then you want to consider safety. Here is a few items we recommend:
Merrell Men's Moab 3 Hiking Shoe
One of the top rated hiking style shoe available, and if you are doing a lot of walking you do not want to skimp on quality, trust me. Pigskin leather and mesh upper 100% recycled laces and webbing Bellows tongue keeps out debris. Protective toe cap 100% recycled mesh lining Kinetic Fit ADVANCED removable contoured insole with reinforced heel cushioning for medium support. Molded nylon arch shank. Merrell Air Cushion in the heel absorbs shock and adds stability. Lightweight EVA foam midsole for stability and comfort Vibram TC5+ rubber sole. Available in over 10 colors, these shoes range in price from 45.00 to 125.00 depending on size and color selected.
Merrell Women's Moab 3 Hiking Shoe
The women's version of the above, these are available in 6 colors, these shoes range in price from 45.00 to 75.00, again depending on size and color selected.
Survivorware First Aid
This 100 piece kit will deliver piece of mind should an emergency arise when traveling, hiking, or on the road. Weighing just a pound, the durable water resistant polyester bag is easy to pack with dimensions of 7.5" x 6" x 3.5".
Labelled and organized inner compartments make it easy to find what you need in the case of an emergency.
CamelBak Crux 3-Liter Water Reservoir
Pop this into your backpack when you go for those long hikes, especially if you are hiking somewhere hot. This Hydration Bladder has a faster water flow rate for bigger sips, it is leak proof with an ergonomic shape and is BPA-Free. great for hiking and biking alike!
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