Some recent changes to Italian traffic laws you will need to consider if contemplating driving this stunning, yet challenging, coastal road.
The Amalfi Coast Road is one of the most scenic drives you could imagine. It winds its way along the southwestern coast of Italy between Sorrento down to Salerno, and I mean it when I say it winds. Most of the journey is full of hairpin turns and blind corners. To one side you have a steep incline up rocky cliffs and to the other you've a sharp drop into the sea hundreds of feet below. Add to the mix you have buses and trucks that need to veer slightly into oncoming traffic just to navigate these turns, and it can make for a harrowing experience. The stretch of road has claimed its fair share of fatalities. Needless to say this drive is not for the faint of heart.
New Traffic Laws
Nonetheless, if you have decided that renting a car and doing the drive yourself is the way to go there are a couple things you should know. Due to the perpetual summer congestion on this stretch of road the local government has implemented a ban on traffic that has been in the works since 2019. It went into effect this summer, 2023, and affects tourists in particular. There is a similar ban on the Sorrento Coast road with some differences between the two.
What Exactly is the New Law?
In effect it cuts down the number of potential travelers on the road by half. The ban is based on the license plate of the vehicle. If the plate ends in an odd number, then you may not drive either road on odd numbered days. Likewise, even numbered plates are forbidden on even numbered days. In addition, vehicles longer than 34 feet (~10m) are banned from operating on the roadway from 6:30 A.M. until midnight. This includes RVs or camper vans as well as vehicles towing a trailer and chartered or tourist buses are also affected.
When is the Ban in Effect?
The ban on vehicles exceeding the 34 foot mark is in effect year round at the times noted above. As for the license plate restrictions those are each detailed below but you can also check the Amalfi Coast district page to confirm dates for a given year.
The Amalfi Coast Road rules are in effect from 10:00 A.M. until 6:00 P.M. on the following days:
Easter Week i.e. the Monday prior to Easter through the Monday following inclusively
Saturdays and Sundays between the dates of June 15 through September 30
Every day of the week in August
Holidays and long weekends (best to check the Italian calendar)
The Sorrento Coast Road rules are in effect from 8:00 A.M until 7:00 P.M. on the following days:
Friday, Saturday and Sundays between April 8 through May 31
Holidays including the day before the holiday
Every day of the week between June 1 and September 30
What are the differences between the two bans?
Apart from the differing timeframes listed above the principle difference is one allows for a critical exception. The Amalfi coast road will waive the ban for tourists who are driving to their accommodations on the day that they are checking in and out. You WILL need to have a physical copy of the reservation with you in order to show to the Polizia if you are pulled over. Once you arrive though you need to comply with the regulation. In contrast, the Sorrento Coast road does NOT make this exception.
Are There Exceptions?
Other than the singular exception in the Amalfi Coast road for those heading to or from their accommodations, the only other exceptions are for residents of the coast, local public buses, and taxis.
Why does this matter?
It is a pretty big deal actually. Imagine you've rented a car in Napoli and want to drive to your hotel in Positano. Ok, so what is your license plate going to be? Yeah, no clue, so you have a 50% chance that you will not be able to drive from Napoli to Sorrento. Sure you could try and take an alternate route that adds considerable time, and of course you'll be missing the spectacular views along the coast. Maybe you've booked a charter bus tour and now find that the bus can no longer ago to where you were planning to stay. Hopefully the bus companies are not offering these trips any longer but not all of them may even be aware. You won't be using Uber in that region either as those are currently limited to Rome and Milan and is illegal in most of Italy. Maybe it's time to rethink your vacation plans.
Alternative Travel
In truth, you don't really need or want a car on this lovely stretch of coastline. On my trip there I found absolutely no need whatsoever to have a vehicle. I made do quite fine using trains, buses, ferries and in a couple of cases a private shuttle sent by the restaurants, La Terra (sadly now closed) and Dona Rosa, up the hill in Montepertuso. Not to mention I was able to enjoy a fair amount of Italian wine and not worry about driving! So let's take a look at the other ways you can navigate around the Amalfi Coast. I am going to overlook the private driver option as that is ridiculously expensive and not worth it. Save your money and splurge on restaurants and some of that aforementioned wine instead.
Trains
Assuming you are coming in from Rome by train to the Naples Centrale station in Piazza Garibaldi, or flying in to Napoli, you can easily get to Sorrento to procure transportation to the coast. From Napoli you can simply take the commuter train, called the Circumvesuviana to Sorrento. This is a slower and often VERY crowded train especially at rush hour as it is a commuter train. The trip time can take up to an hour and a half depending on stops and delays and it does not have any air conditioning. Traveling with luggage will be difficult at best and you will likely be standing for the trip. Be aware of pickpockets as this is a perfect environment for them to operate in! Tickets for this train are a bit of a pain if you are buying them at the station as there are a lot of fare options you'll need to decipher. It should cost about €3.60 one way to get from Napoli to Sorrento and you'll only be able to use cash. Online advance tickets are not available. It is ultimately easier to purchase your tickets at a nearby newsstand or tobacconist since you'll get quicker and friendlier service.
Fortunately there is another train that you can take that is slightly faster with less stops and fewer crowds plus more comfort in such that it boasts air conditioned cars. This is the Campania Express and it will get you there in about an hour with a price tag of about €25.00 round trip from Napoli to Sorrento. Tickets for this train can be purchased online ahead of time with both departure and return selections and seating is assigned so you know you'll have a spot. Luggage is also going to be a lot easier to deal with. Bear in mind one can also purchase tickets up to 20 minutes prior to departure at the station but it won't guarantee you a seat.
Ruins of Pompeii Slides
Both of these trains transit through the Pompeii train station so if you are planning to visit there, which you ABSOLUTELY should, then this is the best way to get there from either Sorrento or Napoli. The Campania Express actually offers a hop on/hop off policy so technically you could make a stopover to visit the ruins although that would be rather impractical if you're hauling luggage.
Busses and Ferries
There is no train that goes down the coast from Sorrento so you'll be looking at either the Sita Sud bus line which is by far the cheapest alternative, or you could also take a ferry. I opted for the bus which conveniently departs from the train station as well. The trip takes about an hour to Positano and about another 40 minutes to Amalfi. You may need to transfer in Amalfi in order to carry on further south to Ravello, Minori and beyond. Tickets are purchased at the news stand in the train station or at nearby tobacconists (I don't believe you can purchase them on board so you'd best get them ahead of time) and cost around €2.00. Don't forget to validate your ticket when you board the bus.
Travel tip: Sit on the right side of the bus when traveling south from Sorrento to the Amalfi Coast as you will have the sea view that way.
Ferry service can be procured from the port in Sorrento or Napoli and you can take them down the coast to various destinations (Positano, Amalfi, etc.). You'll take the subway to the Napoli port from the train station or a bus from the airport. The port in Sorrento is about a ten minute walk from the train station there.
You'll need to check if there is a route that includes your destination of choice or you might be combining a ferry ride with a short bus trip. The cost of the ferry is going to be around €50.00 for the Sorrento-Positano route and about €75.00 for the Napoli-Positano route. These are costs for October so there is a likely chance they will be higher in peak season. You can see the routes, timetables and costs and purchase tickets in advance on the Direct Ferries website. You'll also be able to catch a ferry out to the Isle of Capri which is a beautiful day trip. Capri town is a very expensive and plastic feeling place with lots of wealthy and Botoxed ghouls roaming around but the island itself is beautiful and should be seen via a private boat tour.
Conclusion
However you choose to get there, the Amalfi Coast is a destination that should be on everyone's bucket list. It is a truly exceptional place with rugged beauty and phenomenal food. If you do find yourself in Positano one day you must go have an Aperol Spritz in the garden at La Zagara; it is an absolute gem. So, all things considered, you really can do quite well with the public transit and private ferry companies to get around. Start researching where to stay and what to do and book early to make sure that you can get the best prices, and don't forget about the new changes coming to European travel with the ETIAS. Read our post about the ETIAS here. If you need some suggestions on how to pack for international travel then take a look at our lists. Hope this article will help get you there with less stress.
Happy Travels!
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