Istanbul is a remarkable city with a truly rich history. It is the only city that can correctly claim it spans two continents. The city is divided by the Bosphorus Strait, which serves as a natural boundary between the European and Asian parts of the city. This geographical distinction gives Istanbul a unique cultural and historical blend.
To say there is a lot to see in Istanbul is a vast understatement so if you only have a few days you are going to have to be pretty selective. I find there is a large concentration of historical and cultural sights to be experienced in the Eminönü and surrounding neighborhoods (Sultanahmet/Taksim) so it is here that I would recommend a weekend adventure especially to someone who is new to the city.
Getting to The City Center
Presumably you will be arriving by air which means you will be arriving at either the Istanbul Airport (IST) which is the primary airport in the city or you may arrive at the Sabiha Gökçen Airport (SAW). Generally most international flights will go to Istanbul airport but there are a few flights from Europe that will go to Sabiha Gökçen.
The two airports are about an hour's drive (in light traffic) from each other with IST being located on the European side of the Bosphorus and SAW situated on the Asian side. I should make note here too that Türkiye has changed their Visa policy and most visitors (European and North American) no longer need to get a Visa upon entry. I just found this out a month ago when i traveled there and was delighted not to have to wait in yet another line to get my Visa prior to lining up for passport control. Yay!
Taxis are always an option and if you want hassle free travel from airport to hotel it might be the way to go. There are numerous taxis stands at the airport, and make sure you go to one of them and not accept a ride from anyone in the airport offering taxi service. Just bear in mind, traffic in Istanbul is usually insane so expect to be in the taxi for about an hour, from either airport. You'll probably be looking at about 1300 TL ( ~40 USD) to get there.
Note: UBER doesn't technically exist in Istanbul. There is an UBER Taxi app but it really is just a regular taxi that will pick you up and they won't go to the airport. The ones that serve airports are members of an Airport Taxis union and no other taxis are allowed to pick up passengers at the airport.
You will likely be staying in one of two areas: Taksim or Eminönü. Both are tourist hotspots with an abundance of hotels and restaurants and are just across from each other accessible by the walkable Galata Köprüsü (Galata bridge) or a short ferry ride and during this weekend itinerary you will see both areas so either place to stay is perfect.
Alternatively you could try taking the Metro system but I'd do some research first to see how close your hotel is from any of the stops.
From IST:
Opened in January 2023, the Istanbul Airport Metro (M11 line) connects Istanbul Airport to the city center and other metro lines. The metro runs from 6 AM–midnight, with trains departing every 15–20 minutes. As of March 2024 it now extends to Gayrettepe which is a metro station that allows transfer to the M2 Metro line. It is this line that takes you to Taksim (get off at the Şişhane station) or to Eminönü (either Vezneciler or at the end of the line Yenıkapı station). This route will require a fair amount of walking though, mostly at the airport as it is about 20 minute walk from the arrivals area to the station. IST is a big airport so anyone going there can expect long walks. You will also need to walk about 12 minutes the transfer point in Gayrettepe and then of course find transportation to your hotel.
From SAW:
The Metro line M4 runs from the SAW airport and takes you as close as Kadıköy station. This is the end of the line for the M4 and is within walking distance to the Kadıköy ferry terminal. You will need to walk from the station and catch a ferry across the Bosphorus to Karaköy for Taksim hotels, or to the Eminönü terminal. The ferry you take will be the same for both terminals in all likelihood as it runs a loop from Eminönü - Karaköy - Kadıköy.
I will make note here that you want to take the Commuter ferries (Şehir Hatları) and NOT the ferry tour. What's the difference? The tour has a guide, it takes much longer, and it costs a 50 times as much. More on the ferries later. So once you've made your way to the ferry terminal you'll need to get to your hotel which will likely mean a taxi. This tortuous route will likely take about 2 hours travel time.
I'm not dissing the Metro system, unless your hotel is near a Metro stop it just really is going to be much easier on you if you opt for a taxi for either airport arrival. The public transit is fantastic for just getting around once in the city though. I just find it easier to take a taxi to/from the airport due to luggage, and trying to get connections to your accommodations.
Eminönü and Surrounding Area
Eminönü is one of the most historic and vibrant districts in Istanbul, Turkey. Located on the southern side of the Golden Horn (a major urban waterway and the primary inlet of the Bosphorus), it has been a bustling hub of commerce and culture for centuries. Here you can tour the Grand Bazaar and the Egyptian or Spice Bazaar.
On the northern side of the Golden Horn is the Taksim neighborhood well known for its night life and shopping. Just a short tram ride brings you from Eminönü to the Sultanahmet neighborhood which is perhaps best known for the Sultan Ahmed Mosque (Blue Mosque) and Topkapı Palace.
Historical Overview
Byzantine Era (324 AD - 1453 AD)
Neorion and Prosphorion Harbors: Eminönü was home to important harbors in Byzantine times. These harbors facilitated trade and travel, contributing to the area's early development.
Forum of Theodosius: This was one of the largest public squares in ancient Constantinople (so named in 330 AD), showcasing the significance of the area during the Byzantine period.
Ottoman Era (1299 AD - 1923 AD):
Conquest of Constantinople (1453 AD): Sultan Mehmed II captures Constantinople, marking the end of the Byzantine Empire and establishing the city as the Ottoman capital, which is renamed Istanbul.
Commercial Hub: Under Ottoman rule, Eminönü became a vital commercial center. The Spice Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı) and the Grand Bazaar (Kapalıçarşı) are testaments to this era, serving as major trading points.
Mosques and Public Buildings: The Ottomans constructed numerous mosques, hamams (Turkish baths), and public buildings, enriching the architectural landscape of the district.
Modern Era (1923 - present)
Proclamation of the Republic of Turkey (1923 AD): The Republic of Türkiye is officially established by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk on October 29,1923, and the last remnants of the Ottoman Empire are dissolved. The date is a celebrated holiday in Türkiye and is called Cumhuriyet Bayramı (Republic day).
Day 1
The Spice Bazaar
Start your day by stepping into the vibrant and aromatic Mısır Çarşısı otherwise known as the Egyptian or Spice Bazaar. It was commissioned by the mother of Sultan Mehmet III, Safiye Sultan, and construction was completed in 1664. It was part of the Yeni Camii (New Mosque) complex and was intended to generate income for the maintenance of the mosque and its associated charitable institutions. The Spice Bazaar is shaped like an "L" and has a total of 88 vaulted rooms, arranged in two main aisles with numerous smaller passages connecting them.
The primary attraction of the Spice Bazaar is, of course, its spices. You can find a vast array of spices from around the world, including saffron, cumin, paprika, sumac, and more.
The colorful displays of spices, often arranged in ornate patterns, are a feast for the eyes and nose. Take note, when the Turks say it is a hot paprika, they mean it is HOT. This isn't to be confused with pul biber which are a kind of hot red pepper flakes but are typically not as hot as the paprika.
You will also find that the bazaar offers a wide variety of dried herbs and teas. Herbal remedies and traditional Turkish teas are popular items. Turkish delight (lokum) in various flavors and colors is also a staple of the bazaar. Visitors can sample and purchase these sweet treats, along with baklava, nuts, and dried fruits.
In addition to food items, the Spice Bazaar has stalls selling traditional Turkish ceramics, textiles, jewelry, prayer mats and other handicrafts. These items reflect the rich cultural heritage of Turkey. Make sure you pick up a Nazar boncuğu, 'evil eye' ornament to hang on your wall back home to ward off spirits.
I highly recommend visiting in the morning before the bulk of the crowds arrive. It can be a crush of humanity as the day moves on. It’s also advisable to bring some local cash, as some smaller vendors may not accept credit cards (I only encountered one who didn't). Make sure you know the exchange rate for your home currency as well so you have a good idea as to actual cost but coming from North America, I have to say everything was VERY reasonable. For example, the dates in the photo below work out to about $20 (USD)/kg which is half price from what you'd find on Amazon.
Yeni Camii Mosque
As you exit the Bazaar you can simply walk a very short distance to the Yeni Camii (The New Mosque). Despite the name it is most certainly not new. Construction on it began in 1597 and was completed in 1665. The Yeni Camii showcases classical Ottoman architecture with its large central dome flanked by smaller domes and semi-domes. The interior is adorned with beautiful, named for the town that they originated in. The mosque complex also includes a courtyard, a fountain for ablutions (where men will wash their arms, hands and feet prior to prayer), and several mausoleums.
Some tips about visiting Mosques:
Dress appropriately. Do not wear shorts, or short skirts. Wear slacks, jeans, or ankle length dresses. Don't wear any tops that expose shoulders or upper arms. You'll be removing any footwear so bear that in mind. Women will also be expected to cover their head with a scarf or light shawl. These are available at the mosque if you don't have one.
Act respectfully. Don't be loud, crass, or rude. Don't take photos of anyone inside. Don't use any flash photography. Don't take videos. Don't walk in front of someone who appears to be in prayer. Speak in hushed tones if you must speak.
Know When to Go: Avoid going to the Mosques anytime within an hour after the Ezan (call to prayer) that you will undeniably hear on loudspeakers throughout the city at every mosque. It is also a good idea to avoid going to the Mosques on Fridays as that is when the weekly prayers and sermons are held similar to Sundays in Christian churches.
From the Mosque you can stroll along the vibrant Hamidiye Caddesi which boasts numerous shops ranging from clothing to candy. In fact there are several candy/sweet shops here that are very well established and will be irresistible to any kids in your group, or to adults with a sweet tooth for that matter!
Explore and enjoy and slowly make your way up towards the Basilica Cistern. You can either walk up the hill towards the entrance or you can take the tram from Sırkecı station near the Spice Bazaar and ride a couple of stops up to Sultanahmet station. From the tram station you'll have a short downhill walk to the entrance.
>>>> DETOUR <<<<
In order to take trams, ferries, buses etc. you will want to get an Istanbul Kart (Card). Let's explore that a little bit here as it will be an essential part of your weekend adventure. The card is an RFID type card that allows you to pay for fares aboard ferries, buses, trams, inclines and the like. Bear in mind, it is not valid for tour operators such as guided bus or ferry tours.
You can obtain a card at any ferry or metro station and most tram stations. You can also buy it from newspaper kiosks all over the city. It is a prepaid and rechargeable card but there are other options available such as the 1 (Bir) pass card 25 TL, 3 (Üç) pass card 70 TL, 5 (beş) pass card 85 TL or the 10 (On) pass card for 200 TL all of which are a paper ticket and are not rechargeable. The cards can be used for multiple people as well. Simply scan the card at an entry terminal and let the first person through the turnstile, then scan again and repeat. Children under 6 are free for all these public transit methods.
I'll leave it to you to decide what works best for your group but my group often just bought the 3 pass (Üç Geç Kart) at each place we wanted to board as we did not have a fixed itinerary.
The kiosks at which you buy these cards can be a bit confusing and you will find many "helpful" people, usually children, who want to assist. Be wary of these folk as they are not as nice as they might appear. They may help you buy a card, and when it drops out of the dispenser, they scoop it up and then have you top up the card with the funds you want but what you don't know is that they have swapped your card out for another one so you have topped up their own card. The moral? Figure it out yourself and ignore anyone trying to help. Just tell them "iyiyim" (eeeyeeyim), otherwise I am fine thank you, and wave them off.
The Steps to get a rechargeable card:
At the vending machine locate a list item that says istanbulkart – 70TL. (I think it costs 130 TL at the airport). If you don’t see it in the options, try another machine as some only let you top up existing cards.
Once you find the option, press the button. A new screen will appear, which displays:
'Para': 0.00TL (Money inserted)
'Adet': 1 (Quantity of cards)
'Süre': 19. (Time remaining on transaction)
'Bakiye': 20.25 (This is only seen if you are topping up an existing card and represents the balance on it)
Where it says 'Kağıt Para Girişi' (insert money) insert your Turkish Lira. If you insert more than the 70 required for the card itself then the excess will be on the card for use later so put what you think you might need. Optionally you can use kredit kart as the payment method.
Once you’re done, press the 'Onay' button at the top right of the screen and wait for the card to fall into the tray below.
Apparently one can also use a credit card directly to swipe at some ferry terminals and tram/bus stops but it costs double what it would costs if you had just bought the metro card. I have not tested this method so I can not say as to its accuracy nor whether it applies to all foreign cards.
<<<< EXIT DETOUR >>>>
There are plenty of options here for a quick lunch including the Sultan pub which is near the tram station. Decent food, but priced accordingly to the tourist trap region it is in. What would cost you 30 anywhere else, will cost you 90 here, as with any restaurant in this area. Anyhow, that is not uncommon to encounter in every city so just plan accordingly. I am not endorsing this particular restaurant, it is just really convenient for a mid-day nosh before going to the Cistern. There are many such places nearby and all will be expensive by Istanbul standards so go in expecting it.
The Basilica Cistern
A word of advice on the Basilica Cistern experience. Buy tickets ahead of time and choose the skip the line option. Yes, it will cost about $35, and you will have to use it during regular hours - see below, but it is absolutely worth it. You can bypass the VERY long line trying to buy tix to get in and despite it still being busy inside, you won't have to suffer outside in the heat waiting to enter. It is lovely and cool inside the Cistern so it makes for a great destination in the high sun timeframe.
The ticket cost if you choose to wait in line is going to be 800TL (~$25) if you go between 9:00 - 18:30, and 1300TL (~$40) if you go from 19:30 - 23:50. Why the difference? It seems that this "night shift" is something new at the museum and features special surprise exhibitions, concerts, food tastings and the like. Unfortunately I can't find any kind of schedule (hence the surprise I guess) so you'll have to decide if a chance encounter is worth the extra cost. These night shift tickets are only available at the museum itself.
The Basilica Cistern, known as Yerebatan Sarnıcı in Turkish is the most impressive ancient cistern that lies beneath the city of Istanbul. Built by the Eastern Roman Emperor Justinian I (527-565), this large underground cistern was popularly called the "Basilica Palace" due to the seemingly countless marble columns rising from the water. It was part of a large-scale effort to provide a reliable water supply to the city of Constantinople, then the capital of the Byzantine Empire.
The Cistern is an engineering marvel, measuring approximately 140 meters by 65 meters, with a capacity to hold about 80,000 cubic meters (21 million gallons) of water. It features 336 marble columns, each about 9 meters (30 feet) high, arranged in 12 rows of 28 columns. Most of these columns are believed to have been recycled from older Roman structures, showcasing the resourcefulness of the Byzantine builders.
The water in the cistern was supplied via aqueducts from the Belgrade Forest, located about 19 km (12 miles) north of Istanbul. The cistern's purpose was to store and provide water to the Great Palace and other structures during dry periods or sieges. Over time the aqueduct network was expanded and with the integration of the Aqueduct of Valens is estimated to be some 425 km (265 miles) long including all of its branches making it the longest aqueduct in ancient history.
Eventually the Cistern fell into disuse and disrepair and was mostly forgotten until it was rediscovered in the mid-16th century by Petrus Gyllius, a French scholar who was researching Byzantine antiquities in Istanbul.
He had heard stories from locals about people drawing water and even catching fish from beneath their basements, leading him to investigate and ultimately uncover the cistern.
The Basilica Cistern underwent several restorations over the centuries, especially in the 1980s when it was cleaned and opened to the public as a tourist attraction.
As you stroll through keep an eye out for two notable columns that feature bases carved with the heads of Medusa from Greek mythology. One head is placed sideways and the other upside down. The origin and significance of these heads are not entirely clear, but they certainly add a mysterious and intriguing element to the cistern.
Galata Bridge and Taksim
It is an easy walk back down to the Galata bridge from the Cistern and you can either walk across the bridge or take a quick ferry ride. From the ferry terminal area walk towards the funicular Karaköy station located a couple of blocks up. This will take you up one stop to the Beyoğlu station which is located just steps away from the well known Istiklal Caddesi which is a famous 1.5 km long pedestrian street lined with shops and cafes and restaurants.
You can either walk along this long avenue or there is also a charming little streetcar that you can take up to the famed Taksim Meydanı (square). Your Istanbul Kart will get you aboard both this tram and the incline at Karaköy as well as the ferry across the Golden Horn, aren't you glad you got one at the detour?
No visit to Taksim would be complete without indulging in some of the area’s culinary offerings. Look to make reservations at one of the amazing restaurants in the area:
360 Istanbul: Located on a rooftop along Istiklal Street, 360 Istanbul offers a unique dining experience with breathtaking views. The menu features a fusion of international and Turkish cuisine, and the venue transforms into a lively nightclub as the evening progresses.
Çiçek Pasajı (Flower Passage): This historic arcade is home to several traditional meyhanes (Turkish taverns). It’s the perfect place to sample meze, a selection of small dishes, accompanied by raki, the traditional Turkish anise-flavored spirit.
Mikla: For a more upscale dining experience, head to Mikla, a renowned Michelin restaurant with a rooftop terrace offering panoramic views. The menu is a modern take on Turkish cuisine, emphasizing fresh, local ingredients.
Galata Tower
Complete your Taksim adventure with a visit to the Galata Tower. This medieval stone tower offers one of the best panoramic views of Istanbul.
The tower has been built and re-built numerous times throughout history. It stands as a testament to the city’s layered history. Climb to the top, and you’ll be rewarded with sweeping views of the Bosphorus, the Golden Horn, and the sprawling cityscape seen below.
From the Beyoğlu tram station you'll just need to go downhill halfway towards the ferry terminal, you can't miss it, it's the big tower thingy dominating the landscape!
As the evening progresses, Taksim’s vibrant nightlife comes alive. The district is dotted with bars and clubs catering to all tastes. Try out one of these:
Babylon: Known for its eclectic live music scene, Babylon is a great spot to catch local and international acts.
Nardis Jazz Club: Located near Galata Tower, Nardis offers an intimate setting with live jazz performances, perfect for winding down after a day of exploration.
360 Istanbul: If you have already dined here, you might just want to stay for the nightclub atmosphere that kicks in later, with DJ performances and a lively crowd.
Day 2
Sleep in if you are still recovering from last night. Otherwise go out for a stroll and have some Turkish coffee and a light breakfast to get the day going. Perhaps a stop at a simit (Turkish Bagel) stand is in order?
Sidebar: If you ever take a ferry trip during your stay here you simply must buy an extra simit to take with you and throw bits overboard to the seagulls that follow the ferries looking for a meal. You might even get one to take it right out of your hand! The video here shows how a master gets all the gulls to follow. He brought a bagful to a bagel fight, no fair!
Sultanahmet Camii (Blue Mosque) and Ayasofya-i Kebir Cami-i Şerifi (Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque)
Today is a day to see some real history in Sultanahmet. First off is the Blue Mosque, perhaps the most well known Mosque in Istanbul. As the morning light filters through the city, the mosque’s stunning architecture is bathed in a serene glow. Built in the early 17th century, the Blue Mosque is renowned for its six minarets and the exquisite blue Iznik tiles that adorn its interior much as you saw before in the Yeni Camii. Take some time to admire the intricate patterns and the grandeur of the main prayer hall.
Just a short walk from the Blue Mosque lies Aya Sofia, also known as Hagia Sophia. Originally constructed as a Christian cathedral in 537 AD, it was converted into a mosque in 1453 and is now a museum that encapsulates the rich tapestry of Istanbul’s history. As you step inside, you’ll be awed by the vast domed ceiling, the magnificent mosaics, and the blend of Christian and Islamic architectural elements. The sheer scale and beauty of Aya Sofia make it one of the world’s most important cultural landmarks. Soak in the ambient serenity and explore the upper galleries for a closer look at the mosaics and a breathtaking view of the main hall.
After your morning of exploration, head to one of the nearby traditional Turkish restaurants for lunch. Explore the varied Turkish Mezes (appetizers) and let your taste buds savor each one. Many restaurants in the area offer delightful views of the historic sites, allowing you to continue soaking in the atmosphere while enjoying your meal.
My Favorite Mezes include:
Kısır – A Turkish version of tabbouleh made with bulgur
Zeytinyağlı Yaprak Dolması - Vegetarian stuffed grape leaves but also available with meat (Etli Yaprak Sarma)
Mercimek Çorbası - Lentil soup, usually with a little spicy kick
Yayla Çorbası - Mountain yogurt soup with mint
Cacık - The quintessential meze in Türkiye, it is a side that combines yogurt, shredded cucumbers, minced garlic, fresh mint, and salt and sometimes lemon, which creates a cool and creamy dip that offset some of the spicier dishes such as the following two....
Acili Ezme - A (sometimes very) spicy tomato salsa-like dish. Phenomenal with fresh baked pide.
Çiğ Köfte with Lettuce: Once a raw meat dish heavily spiced and worked with the hands rigorously to 'cook' the dish is now a bulgur based dish due to health regulations.
Sigara Böreği - A crispy Yufka (filo) roll that has Beyaz Peynir (white cheese like feta) and usually Maydonoz (parsley) inside
Afternoon: Exploring Topkapi Palace
With your energy replenished, make your way to Topkapi Palace. This grand palace was the residence of Ottoman sultans for nearly 400 years and is now a museum showcasing the opulence and splendor of the Ottoman Empire. Wander through the various courtyards, gardens, and opulent rooms, including the Harem, the Treasury with its dazzling collection of jewels, and the Imperial Council Chamber. Don’t miss the breathtaking views of the Bosphorus from the palace grounds, providing a picturesque backdrop to your visit.
Late Afternoon: Reflecting at Gülhane Park
After exploring Topkapi Palace, take a leisurely stroll through Gülhane Park, located just outside the palace walls. This historic park offers a tranquil escape with its lush greenery, beautiful flowerbeds, and scenic paths. It’s the perfect spot to relax and reflect on the history and beauty you’ve experienced throughout the day.
Finally, a Hammam
What better way to wrap up your Turkish weekend than to visit a hammam and have them wash away all of the dirt and grime accumulated during your trip. Make your way to the Cağaloğlu Hamam to have the stress washed away. Spend the extra little bit and go with the Cağaoğlu Hamam special service for 130 Euro, which combines the traditional Turkish bath ritual with an Oriental experience. You will head back home to your hotel feeling like a new person.
Complete your trip with a meal at the Grace Rooftop restaurant which features a fusion menu and stunning views of the nearby Mosques. Or maybe you want to explore and find you own culinary paradise.
Summary
However you plan it, a few days in Istanbul is invigorating and inspiring, and will most surely leave you wanting for more. I fell in love with the city some 20 years ago when I first visited and have cherished every visit since. I hope you too can one day experience the joy that is this diverse and historically rich city that must be seen in person to be truly appreciated and cherished.
Il Digestivo
You may have already left Istanbul but you should never let Istanbul leave you. Here are some items that you can get to let you relive those exquisite moments.
Sed Mountain Exfoliating Glove
Bring the Hammam to your home with these amazing gloves. These are to be used with water only as using soap or gel will reduce the effect of the kese. Wash yourself with soap first and then use the kese to scrub away dead skin and baked in dirt. Available in several different weights of cloth to be used for different skin types with some for sensitive skin and face only. Each individual should have their own kese, it is not hygienic to share one.
Cerez Pazari Baklava Pastry Gift Box
Cerez Pazari brings to you Assorted Baklava Pastry Tin Gift Box which includes delicacies made from Turkish Pistachio, Almond, Cashew and Hazelnut. This traditional dessert is a great snack to have during any time of the day as it has a sweet taste that instantly lifts your mood and brings a smile to your face.
Turkish Delight Rose Flavored 500 gr Lokum gift box
The famous Koska tradition goes back to the candy shop opened in 1907. This Turkish delight is Rose flavored and is amongst the most popular type of Lokum sold. Delectable and delightful, a true taste of Türkiye.
Note: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
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